Local Tahitian Surfer Interview

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Q: What is your name, age, place you live?
A: Hi, my name is Boris but everybody call me Bogus or Bobby… i’m 28 years old and I live in one of the most beautiful place in the world: Tahiti , French Polynesia! Not a lot of people know it!
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Q: What is it like living in Tahiti?
A: It is a dream, I live in a sweet island, surrounded by Nature and friends! I think we live in heaven, we got everything we need like the ocean, the mountains and trees, our lifestyle is really cool like the weather, the local food is excellent and the people are so friendly no matter where you’re from or the color of your skin, we are all friends here, everyone “Hang looses” everyone \!!!/
We got the sun almost all year long and waves all around the island (3 hours maximum to do the round of it) from beachbreaks to reefbreaks!!! It is perfect for people who love to chill out and go in the water (Spearfishing, chilling, surfing…)                           
Q: Can you explain your connection to the ocean?
A: We live so close to the sea, we can even hear it when the swell is getting bigger, we love surfing and fishing, so one of the best thing to do when you don’t know what to do here, is to go to the beach or to cruise around! Everyday we look for the sea, it is our way to read the weather too, the different winds and swells running… Being surrounded by the Ocean makes the way of life we live!
As a community of riders, we also check each others to know where the perfect spot is, the chase! And once we find it we can only keep it secret for a day until others find it too! haha You got so much beautiful things to see when you get close to the ocean, it is the best moving picture you can get! Many whales, dolphins, turtles and different species of fish make it an unbelievable magic Kingdom! And as a surfer, I do think we got some of the most perfect waves in the world: some shallow crystal clear reefbreaks and pretty fun beachbreaks too! So everything we do is connected to the ocean!
Q: Do you like lefts or rights?
A: I really love to surf both it doesn’t matter for me until the wave is perfect! We got many lefts and rights and we just look for the best wind an swell to choose a location… I used to prefer left as i am a Goofy footer but with a bit of experience i manage to discover the backside ride and just felt in love with it… But i still won’t be able to choose which side i really prefer because both can bring me this sweet feeling of a ride! So i’ll choose BOTH!
Q: What wave do you enjoy surfing and why? (you dont have to give away your secret spot or anything, just talk about a wave you really enjoy)
A: It’is so hard to answer just because a lot of waves are so perfect just got to look for the perfect timing and i’ve really had sessions all around the island and even on the other sister island Moorea, and each one has a perfection that makes it so hard to choose just one, really! But for many points i’ll choose Teahupoo, beautiful and powerful at the same time! The tahitian most known wave, not for nothing! You can get wave for tricks, others for barrels and you can also get few rights depending the direction of the swell! And the spot is almost empty everyday…or if it really is a perfect day, you will only find the real locals out there!
Q: Do you use your GoPro in the ocean a lot?
A: Yes mainly while surfing or shooting photos in the ocean, sometimes out of water too for some sunsets or little explorations in the Nature… but I mostly use it in the water! I always look for surfing first, if it is too perfect I got to surf! But when i’m done I always try to make pictures, we got a wonderful environment, ocean, mountains, rivers… you are sure to find a magic moment to capture! We got wonderful sunset with unbelievable colors, everyday a different one! Mountains hides a lot of treasures too with the plants and animal life! And it is hard not to capture anything with the rivers and the ocean we got as playground! We don’t really recognize how beautiful is Tahiti and the islands around, we don’t realize how lucky we are to live here, so far from the world’s problems and so close to this Nature!
Q: Do you use the GoSurf Accessories Mouth Mount? How do you like it? Does it work well for you? What do you like most about the mount/ using the mount while surfing?
A: Yes I do, I like it when the waves are barreling it is a must-have accessory, it really is easier for me to get inside visions with it! I can use both my hands to paddle and cacth some waves and it allows me to choose between the normal head angle or to handle it and try to make deeper inside visions or selfies! I use it to shoot photos too sometimes, because it is hard to swim with a cam in hands, it is good to be hands free and breath while trying to be at the good spot for a good shot!
Q: If you were to travel anywhere in the world to surf, where would it be?
A: Everybody will say Hawaii, Bali, Australia or Indo, i’d love to surf these spots but I’ll might say I don’t need to travel anywhere! I think I would choose a surf trip in the islands around Tahiti cause I know that we got many pearls to surf and discover! You’re sure to find world class waves with beautiful reefbreaks colors! But without thinking of waves around here, I might say Namibia, Skeleton Bay just because of how long and shallow is the barrel (mouthmount visions paradise!)
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Q: How do you think we can (average person) help to keep the oceans clean and/ or protect the ocean environment?
A: First, it is about education, you got to respect the environment because you live in it and you need it to live! Remember it doesn’t need you at all!
Second, we all pollute, in the air, earth and sea so we all have to care about it! The ocean is the main element on earth, and it is for sure the most polluted! We should all care about trashes in the rivers, beaches and urban environment just because it all goes straight to the sea! It is hard for normal people to catch all the trashes already in the ocean, but if everyone could pick up one trash he finds on his way, just one everyday, and I think we could get a cleaner World and so a cleaner Ocean!
But the first thing to do is to get educated about it and educate the youth about how important is the world and the nature and about how human being is a cruel monster destroying and polluting the only thing that makes him alive: NATURE!
Quote:
…Only a barrel (and a woman) brings this feeling…